One man, one dog, one year on the road
Inspired by John Steinbeck, unemployment, boredom and that sense of wanderlust that percolates in us all, “Travels with Ace” began as equal parts experiment and adventure.
Might Ace and I — if we were to give up our house in Baltimore — be able to travel across America for what we once spent on rent and utilities? If we stayed in only the cheapest of motels, camped, and freeloaded whenever possible off of friends, family and strangers, could my 130-pound mutt and I survive as nomads? In other words, can one see America for the same price as settling in America. Could we soar for what it was costing us to nest?
One year after we set off on what was intended to be a 3-month journey — with 27,000 miles, lots of Ramen noodles, Taco Bells and Motel 6′s behind us – we can report that yes, you can (not that we always have) if you really try.
We can also report that the people and dogs we’ve met, the sights we’ve seen, the memories we’ve dredged up, the smiles we’ve been blessed with, the stories we’ve heard, and the hospitality we’ve encountered — while sleeping on sofas, air mattresses, campers, empty houses, tents and boats – defy any monetary measurement. They have been, as the commercial says, priceless.
And more than once, they’ve prompted us to wax poetic – or at least try.
From shelters in Louisiana to animal sanctuaries in Utah to strip clubs in Dallas, I’m learning tons about dogs and about people – about their resilience, and adaptability and the innate goodness of both species.
I’m seeing more deeply into, and being ever more amazed by, my own dog.
We’re encountering an America much changed — whether for the better is debatable — since John Steinbeck and his poodle, Charley, crossed it in a camper named Rocinante 50 years ago.
Stick to the Interstate and you see a country that, as Steinbeck noted, is losing its localness. Venture off it, though, and, as William Least Heat Moon proved, you’ll find places still holding on to, and often oozing, character — and characters.
We’ve met our fair share of them — from Kinky Friedman, the prolific Texas author/dog rescuer/political candidate to Sonny Barger, a founding member of the Hells Angels; from a harmonica-playing hobo to a man who has spent nearly 30 years painting a mountain. Not a picture of a mountain, an actual mountain.
We posted about our travels daily, or pretty near, up until settling back down, for the time being, anyway, in Winston-Salem, N.C., my birthplace.
Unlike John Steinbeck’s classic, “Travels with Charley,” our trip was all about the dog, a species that, without a doubt, holds a far higher place in society than it did in Steinbeck’s day. We visited shelters, sanctuaries and rescues; dog-friendly vacation spots, restaurants, bars, parks and other places where people share in the joy of the species, or work to make the world a better place for dogs.
To read the latest “Travels with Ace” posts, click on the “The Blog” tab above. That will take you to the introductions, where you can click your way to the full post.
To read about our hopes and plans to turn “Travels with Ace” into a book, click on “The Book” tab, where we’ll keep you updated on how all that’s going.
Other tabs will take you to our collection of “Highway Haiku,” poetry composed behind the steering wheel; and an archive of our “Roadside Encounters,” profiles of some of the dogs and people we met on the road.
Merchandise? We’ve got a little, and plan to add more. For now, it’s limited to our 2012 - 2013) “Travels with Ace” wall calendar, which revisits many of the stops we made.
What readers are saying about “Travels with Ace”
“I can’t really put my finger on why, but your roadtrip stories are probably my favorite thing on the internet right now.
“Maybe it’s just the daily reminders that overall, people are good, dogs are awesome, and life can be fun …” (Lisa)
“The tales of JW and Ace have touched me deeply … What you two are seeing and experiencing – and how you are writing unabashedly from the heart and soul – produce something like I read nowhere, anywhere, today on the ‘net…” (EighteenPaws)
“Please. More kudzu. More dogs in kudzu. More reflections on looking for dogs in kudzu. More gypsy wandering. More Ace in gypsy locales. More dog friendly encounters. Please …” (Sue)
“Travels with Ace” is an offspring of ohmidog! — a popular website devoted to celebrating the canine spirit and bringing you the latest in dog news from around the world.
It is produced, with help from friends, by John Woestendiek, a Pulitzer Prize winning journalist who worked at, among other newspapers, the Philadelphia Inquirer and, until 2008, the Baltimore Sun.
You can learn more about ohmidog! here.